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Post by watchbank on Mar 18, 2014 18:39:55 GMT
Had a new saddle re-fitted to my extra wide welsh cob, she went from 7" d-d to 9.5" over winter due to maturity. Had the saddle re fitted BUT i still find when she trots because shes so bloody wide it wobbles forwards I don't want to over-girth her either. It couldn't go any wider without loosing wither clearance. I am using a non slip pad underneath it but didn't want too if i could help it! I see loads of people using non slip pads at the shows when watching them get stripped! Any advice appreciated  |
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Post by judyh on Mar 18, 2014 19:31:58 GMT
Have sent you a message
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Post by Philippa on Mar 18, 2014 21:14:47 GMT
Please can you send me a message too. My friends C is narrower in front. Only a baby but saddle been made to measure & slipping right forward. |
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Post by sbloom on Mar 19, 2014 10:28:24 GMT
Widening a saddle that much is never advisable - the tree will curve more as you widen the tree and you are now getting instability because the tree isn't flat enough, even if it was before. It is a classic issue with natives and something I see all the time - too curvy trees mean the saddle is unstable, even if you can't see it, not close enough contact with enough grip, and will get sent up the neck in trot or canter, occasionally even walk! You need a fitter who udnerstands natives, saddles with the right shaped flat tree (we have three basic flat trees, there is no such thing as one "magic" native tree), with the right panel and flocking, and with a point strap in most cases.
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Post by delfachhighwayman on Mar 20, 2014 17:44:28 GMT
Strongly suggets trying the solution show saddle,it has worked so well for my welsh cobs!
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Post by watchbank on Mar 22, 2014 16:46:16 GMT
Just to update you all I have just bought another saddle instead an Ideal Ramsay which has 19" leg flaps and is the width she was re-fitted at so i will see if it fits her if not i will try again lol
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Post by dsmum on Mar 23, 2014 13:03:59 GMT
fylde ray is the only one that seems to fit a very wide cobs....
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Post by watchbank on Mar 23, 2014 13:47:18 GMT
dsmum the ramsay is exactly the same!  |
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wilbs
Full Member
Posts: 246
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Post by wilbs on Mar 23, 2014 14:28:04 GMT
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Post by sbloom on Mar 24, 2014 15:51:40 GMT
fylde ray is the only one that seems to fit a very wide cobs.... Ahh maybe I should give up working for Native Pony then  |
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Post by watchbank on Mar 24, 2014 18:53:10 GMT
fylde ray is the only one that seems to fit a very wide cobs.... Ahh maybe I should give up working for Native Pony then sbloom i was tempted to get Native Pony & Cob out to sort me something out, but i found the one i wanted by chance! Hopefully it will be ok if not it will be sold and i shall try again, i think the overall fit of my last one just wasnt correct! x |
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Post by kirtonian on Mar 24, 2014 19:44:54 GMT
fylde ray is the only one that seems to fit a very wide cobs.... Ahh maybe I should give up working for Native Pony then HaHa, don't give up....my super wide ponies need you. Ray may fit well, but I couldn't ride in it. New super wide NP saddle , traditional on cob tree is lovely. ps before I get shot down, am ONLY saying I didn't like riding in it!!, appreciate others do, just pointing out not the only option for wide ponies ;-) |
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Post by sbloom on Mar 25, 2014 16:38:43 GMT
Don't worry, I'm not going anywhere  . Did make me laugh though that only one saddle apparently fits very wide cobs...I'm doomed with my new batch of cob tree working hunters and GPs in XXXW-XXXXW, clearly! |
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Post by kirtonian on Mar 25, 2014 20:35:58 GMT
Well if you can't sell them you could always give me one lol
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Post by sjm on Apr 3, 2014 15:16:26 GMT
our 14hd very wide coloured native is now in a derby house samber fits him like a glove, after having gone though a few saddles.
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Post by helle on Apr 4, 2014 10:02:05 GMT
I have to say that having had the same problem we have just bought ours a Fylde Ray, fits her like a glove, very wide weight bearing area and very comfortable!
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Post by waspblue on Apr 5, 2014 10:23:49 GMT
Well if you can't sell them you could always give me one lol Nice try - would it work for me too..hmmm |
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Post by waspblue on Apr 5, 2014 10:29:16 GMT
I think each and every pony and rider combination is different and unique to themselves in each others requirements, so there is therefore no such thing as one particular style, size or brand of saddle that fits a certain type. I could really confuse the issue now, as have just read an amazing book called 'Suffering in Silence' by a german saddler called Jochen Schleese and wow is that an eye opener. For anyone interested in saddles and their fitting this would make very interesting reading and worth every penny. He has a totally different view on things,
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Post by ashleigh19 on May 16, 2014 19:36:45 GMT
I love the way both my saddles fit my horse's sbloom , it's all about getting it right first time : )
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Post by flo1 on May 22, 2014 12:10:23 GMT
Before trying new saddles it makes sense to change the way the saddle is girthed to check if that's where the problem lies.
If your saddle is moving/tipping forwards and you're using a point strap, try using the second strap instead.
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Post by bethanyy on May 22, 2014 12:25:46 GMT
fylde ray is the only one that seems to fit a very wide cobs.... I found this with my traditional! Got so fed up messing about with second hand saddles I threw him in the trailer, took him to Fylde and bought him a brand new Ray which fits perfectly! |
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Post by sbloom on May 26, 2014 10:27:03 GMT
Before trying new saddles it makes sense to change the way the saddle is girthed to check if that's where the problem lies. If your saddle is moving/tipping forwards and you're using a point strap, try using the second strap instead. I agree with the first point but less so with the second - the point strap is to help stop saddles moving forwards and it is generally used with the third where there are four girth straps. It is for lining the saddle up with a forward girth groove, and if the front of the saddle fits correctly it will not pull the front of the saddle down. This girthing set up gives moderate lateral stability. Switching to 2 and 3 will give slightly LESS lateral stability as the girth straps are close together in the middle of the saddle, 1 and 4 on both sides gives maximum lateral stability. With the advice of your saddle fitter you can also use different girhing on each side for an otherwise well fitted saddle where it sits to one side. This should only be done temporarily and only when you know there is an asymmetry with horse or rider that is being worked on and improved. It is NOT for keeping an ill fitting saddle in place If switching from 1 and 3 to 2 and 3 improved lateral stability then I'd say the front of the saddle doesn't fit well (so IS being pulled down by the point strap) and the horse probably has a shoulder asmmetry. I'd look to get it refitted to the horse, and work out where the asymmetry is. |
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Post by flo1 on May 26, 2014 21:55:12 GMT
Before trying new saddles it makes sense to change the way the saddle is girthed to check if that's where the problem lies. If your saddle is moving/tipping forwards and you're using a point strap, try using the second strap instead. I agree with the first point but less so with the second - the point strap is to help stop saddles moving forwards and it is generally used with the third where there are four girth straps. It is for lining the saddle up with a forward girth groove, and if the front of the saddle fits correctly it will not pull the front of the saddle down. This girthing set up gives moderate lateral stability. Switching to 2 and 3 will give slightly LESS lateral stability as the girth straps are close together in the middle of the saddle, 1 and 4 on both sides gives maximum lateral stability. With the advice of your saddle fitter you can also use different girhing on each side for an otherwise well fitted saddle where it sits to one side. This should only be done temporarily and only when you know there is an asymmetry with horse or rider that is being worked on and improved. It is NOT for keeping an ill fitting saddle in place If switching from 1 and 3 to 2 and 3 improved lateral stability then I'd say the front of the saddle doesn't fit well (so IS being pulled down by the point strap) and the horse probably has a shoulder asmmetry. I'd look to get it refitted to the horse, and work out where the asymmetry is. I switched from using the point strap to the second strap on the advice of my saddle fitter (Who also made the saddle specifically for my youngster) and this solved the problem that we were having at that time. I've also had an independent fitter to check and who also agrees that the saddle (a Silhouette)is an excellent fit. He's a five year old who is constantly changing shape and as he is still quite unbalanced It would be odd if he wasn't asymmetrical at this point in his training. |
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Post by sbloom on May 27, 2014 12:14:13 GMT
Not saying it doesn't fit, just explaining that it's not necessarily a good thing to try for other people. I had a customer recently put her girth on 2nd and 4th straps as it stopped it slipping to one side, she hadn't noticed it made it move forwards a fair bit, tipping it back even more than it was already. Left like this it would have caused quite an issue. What she actually needed was the tree widening, and going back to 1st and 3rd straps. I always just try to explain the science behind various things with saddle fitting, then people can decide for themselves |
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. Did make me laugh though that only one saddle apparently fits very wide cobs...I'm doomed with my new batch of cob tree working hunters and GPs in XXXW-XXXXW, clearly!
